Each Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.
When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.
A Surprise Recognition
The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
A Namesake Creation: Tantuni
However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.
It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.
Rising Above the Giants
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
A Creed of Heart
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Perseverance
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the People
The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.